I checked in to the Maitian hostel
with no problems—be warned, it is a bit hard for taxi drivers to find as it is
down a side street. Bill was not lying when he said there were soldiers and
tanks everywhere. There are. Not tank tanks, but white APCs and a lot of guys
with assault rifles. There are police and “SWAT” checkpoints everywhere. The
“SWAT” guys are actually just out of shape, unarmed, underemployed people half
of whom are asleep at the switch (literally). If you’ve got a bag, though, you
will be searched at the entrance to absolutely everything (including the park).
In terms of things to do, there is not much. The Grand Bazaar is worth a visit,
but the part I went to that boasted of “handicrafts” was actually full of the
same goods pumped out some factory. I’m sure they were “handicrafts” because
the cost of labor at said factory is so low.
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| Bazaar |
Uighur culture is definitely
present, though, both here and in the city at large. The Xinjiang regional museum
is quite nice with reasonable English descriptions, as is the Red Hill park
with the temples and towers. A note about the latter: if you draw a crappy
picture of the tower on a piece of paper and give to a taxi while pointing in
the general direction of the park, they’ll understand. Not really much beyond
that, except to sit around and eat meatsticks. That being said, there are some
tasty meatsticks around. I had a bunch of lamb ones before walking by a truck
full of sheep next to a butcher shop and then I realized that whatever I had
was certainly fresh. Also, Maitian didn’t have any TP that I could see, so I
bought my own (this is a generally good idea in this area).
I’ve spent the morning trying to get the internet and VPNs to cooperate (they
don’t, so I’m going to have to dump all these posts at once). Also, the plan to
cross into Kyrgyzstan is getting increasingly complex, as the Irkeshtam
crossing is apparently closed on weekends (when I planned to cross).
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| Captain Meatsticks and his trusty grill |
Urumqi:
A bazaar, a museum, a couple of parks, lots of excellent meatsticks.
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| The park |



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