Odessa

Odessa, of all the cities I visited, was perhaps the most unique. Combining classical architectural styles, a fascinating history, and a beach, Odessa really has it all. I actually decided to spend an extra day here at the last minute (it cost a bunch of money) because it was such an amazing place. I could have gladly spent an entire week there given the variety of attractions and the overall lifestyle of the place. Live music is everywhere, with several premier concert venues along with countless smaller venues. I spent the first night at the True Man beach bar, which featured a live band playing classic US hits. The nightlife is extensive, with plenty of beachfront bars, a variety of clubs, and a downtown that was full of life late into the evening. Most of the nightlife is clustered into the Arkade (clubs) and downtown (clubs and bars), though the entire length of the beach is littered with beach bars. Within each of these areas, it is very easy to walk. To go between them, cabs are relatively inexpensive and plentiful. 

Opera House

Classic Odessa, Classic Tram

                 Odessa during the day has its own set of attractions. It is easy to wander around the center of the city admiring the architecture and stopping in at any of the myriad of restaurants. Alternatively, a day on the beach is always fun, even if the water is, well, disgustingly full of stringy green algae. Due to my short time, I was not able to fully explore what Odessa has to offer, but there are also several museums, boat excursions, and nearby destinations that make Odessa a fun place to visit. What makes Odessa really unique is the atmosphere of a cultural capital of old Europe combined with the warm, breezy climate of the Black Sea. It’s no trashy beach town, but then again, it isn’t some stodgy western European cultural center. It is a mix that is fascinating and fun--Odessa is the perfect blend of high culture and drinking a beer on the beach. If there is any place on this trip that I would go back to tomorrow, it would be here (and St. Petersburg). 

                I’m not going to cover Kyiv and Berlin, as I was only there briefly to meet with friends. Thus concludes this blog!

Tiraspol

My AirBnb host graciously arranged for a taxi direct from the airport, and before I knew it, I was in Tiraspol. The border passed without any hitch—for all the stories of petty corruption, I saw none in my limited interactions with transnistrian officials.

Hand cannons

                The next day I took a tour with Andrey Smolensky  from Transnistria Tour and I enjoyed it greatly. The first day was spent simply looking around and getting a basis for further travels. The various soviet memorials were interesting, especially the obelisk at the location from which the Chisnau offensive was launched in 1944, and the palace of culture. But most interesting was the Bendery fortress, which had a good English explanation of the surprising episode in history when the Swedish king spent several years there. This was a particularly worthwhile opportunity to learn about a fascinating and arcane piece of history. I also visited the Kvint factory and received an excellent tour from (name). Transnistria has some industry, to include Kvint, steel, shoes, and cable. Later, my Airbnb host was able to set me up with a local artist and photographer who showed me some more random corners of town, including the upper floors of an old soviet apartment building and a few parks. 

Bendery Fortress

Atop the apartment building, looking out over Tiraspol

               The next day, I was able to meet up with a friend of a friend, who showed me even more of Tiraspol. We took a river cruise and walked around Tiraspol at night, seeing the various buildings lit up. We met up again the next day and visited the Sheriff complex, including their “hypermarket”, which resembled a poorly-stocked Costco. After more visits to random parts of Tiraspol, we parted ways and I headed to Odessa.

Classic Tank Monument

Dom Sovietov

Dniester

                Tiraspol is not a touristy city—with the exception of the Bendery fortress, and the soviet monuments that are scattered everywhere in high density, there is not much to actively go see. That being said, its friendly people and relaxed pace of life make it an enjoyable place to spend time. To unlock its full potential, I think it is best to 1.) have a very good grasp of Russian 2.) spend a week or two here and get to know some of the residents. That’s really the key—if you can get an introduction to people who will show you around, it can be very enjoyable. Otherwise, you may quickly find yourself bored, especially with somewhere like Odessa right around the corner…

Local kvas, which according to everyone in Tiraspol, is the "real" kvas

Krasnaya Strela

Uncomfortably close to departure

This is the best way to go between St. Petersburg and Moscow. Though I had to hurry to make my train and my phone died along with my electronic ticket, I was able to use my passport to board. At 23:54, one minute before departure, I went out to the door to listen as "The Hymn to the Great City" heralded our imminent departure and a (probably) drunk (probably) Russian tried to explain to me about his travels in America while the provodnitsa looked on with amusement and the train gathered speed. I stood near the door until they closed it, and then retreated to my compartment as soon as I could disentangle myself from my inebriated company. After a short chat with my compartmentmate, an English-speaking Russian traveling on business, I decided to visit the restaurant car. We were passing through the suburbs now, and the rain which had threatened was now silently streaming across the windows of the train. Since the dollar is so strong, I treated myself to champagne and caviar after a sturgeon dinner. I went back to my compartment and fell asleep as the pine and birch forests of northern Russia slipped past my window in the half-light of the northern night. 

Goodnight Russia

                The next morning, I woke up in time to use both the complimentary slippers and toothbrush/paste. The breakfast they delivered was reasonable, far better than could be expected on overnight trains in western Europe. It was even served on a plate. Soon enough, we were in Moscow, and after a visit to the (highly recommended) Museum of Soviet Arcade Games, I took the Aeroexpress to Domodedevo and flew to Chisnau. 

Our Locomotive

Compartment, after breakfasting

"Magistral", where you too can drive the highway to the Danger Zone

About the train: The first class berths came with excellent service, and the train is entirely modern, from the locomotive to the 2^nd to last wagon. The last wagon appears to be a renovated 1970s’ wagon for the “super-deluxe” class. Freebies included everything from breakfast to slippers to chocolates to a sewing kit. Some might accuse this of being a “touristy” train, but my compartment-mate was an English-speaking Russian taking it for business—he enjoyed the convenience of being able to be in Moscow for a morning meeting without having to leave the night before. The tickets, which were around $70, were incredibly cheap for the entire experience. It is often described as Russia’s premier train, and having ridden several Russian trains, this truly felt “premier”. After all, what other train in the world warrants its own special departure music?