Arslanbob

After a morning spent relaxing in Osh, I set off for Arslanbob. I got to the bus station in Osh, where I promptly discovered that the 2 PM marshrutka to Arslanbob had already left. Instead, I would have to take a marshrutka (fixed-route minibus) to Jalal-Abad (of Battlefield 2 fame), then another to Bazaar Korgon, then another to Arslanbob. This rather intimidating series of transfers was quickly made much easier by the fact that as soon as I boarded the Jalal-Abad marshrutka, a Kyrgyz guy of about my age approached me and struck up a conversation. His name was Sirojiddin, and I was to discover that his friendliness was typical of Kyrgyz people. He helped me get from Osh to Jalal-Abad to Bazaar Korgon, where he lived, and from there pointed me in the right direction to Arslanbob. He even helped me get a SIM card and showed me some local Kyrgyz “samsa” and shashlik, which are local meat-based specialties. We also tried a glass of Jarma, which I liked but not as much as Kumis. 

The Bazaar of Bazaar Korgon

                I eventually got on the last marshrutka to Arslanbob, arriving around 8:30 PM (due to shashlik and SIM-card stops). It was on this ride that I realized I truly knew enough Russian to get myself in trouble—there was a kid of maybe 5 years old on the marshrutka who also knew some Russian and before I knew it he was trying to use my phone to take pictures of the girls and women on the bus and threatening to beat me up and asking me if I had a Zhiguli (I told him “there are no Zhigulis in America") and trying out what I assume were various obscene gestures.

                Despite my late arrival in Arslanbob I was able to stand around looking lost until someone put me in touch with CBT and a homestay. Despite some Dutch guys describing CBT as “kind of sketchy”, I had a very positive experience, though my homestay was less of a “homestay” in terms of interacting with the family and more of a B&B experience. It was very nice though. And I had a nice, comfortable  bed, whereas the Dutch guys had to tent in someone’s courtyard.

My courtyard

                The first day it rained and I was only able to visit the small waterfall and the panorama. It was nice enough for a miserable day weather-wise, but it really wasn’t much. The high point of the day was sitting down at a tourist pavilion near the extremely touristy small waterfall and talking to a bunch of Kyrgyz middle/high schoolers, which quickly turned into a gratuitous selfie-fest for all the students.

Small waterfall

                The next day I was able to finally meet Hayat, who was very helpful and set me up with a guide to the Holy Rock. Almaz, my guide, and I managed to complete the hike in a day, with pleasant enough weather. The hike itself was very worthwhile—the rock commands an impressive view (even when wrapped in clouds, as it was when I hiked). Lower down, where it was sunny, we could observe large Jailoos and later the famed walnut groves, which were as idyllic as expected in the afternoon sun. Almaz was a great guide and very helpful at answering my myriad of questions about agriculture, Arslanbob, and Kyrgyzstan. I can only second the opinion of those who have suggested Arslanbob as a place to spend a pleasant few days.

Going up

The valley

Walnut grove